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Design Stories - leinwände’s Knit Vest



Starting with the Patchwork Fringe Top, the layered knit vest stands as an iconic item from leinwände.
Each season, during exhibitions in Paris, international buyers laud them, affirming that they "embody the essence of Japanese layering culture." These items are indispensable in defining leinwände's identity as a Japanese brand.
Thereby cementing these pieces as quintessential in defining leinwände's identity as a Japanese brand.
Whether it's a dress, a shirt, or a turtleneck, layering one of these pieces adds a unique edge and brings a fresh mood to the wardrobe. For this time of Design Stories we are focusing on leinwände's knit vest.











The knit vest, reminiscent of traditional Japanese attire with its wide belt draped across the surplice neckline, made its debut in the 2020 Spring/Summer Collection.
During that time, there was a period of experimentation, seeking to express colors, patterns, and materials in a more liberated contrast akin to mixed media or collage artwork.




Still unseen in everyone's closets, the Patchwork Fringe Top as a layering item over simple garments emerged as a result of contemplating more versatile pieces than those previously created—items that could easily integrate into one's wardrobe.
From there, by varying the yarns and knits each season according to the collection theme and mood, a multitude of designs came to fruition.



from 2023 A/W Collection


from 2022 A/W Collection


The designer at leinwände often says that the potential of knitwear lies in the ability to create thousands of designs from a single yarn. And she said that "sewing together drastically different stitches!" when she made the first design of her knitted item.
From the same season, in the bodysuits they created, they began to establish leinwände's knitwear as a mixed media by patchworking rib knits and other techniques. This evolution began gradually from the 2017AW, the first season.
The process of crafting these knits is highly intuitive, akin to painting on a blank canvas.



from 2021 A/W Collection


When the designer was creating the Patchwork Knit Top, the approach was all about:
“Let's make some fluffy fringes! “
First, she grabbed some tape yarn, but the volume wasn't quite there, so she decided to mix in some unusual yarns to create texture.
She experimented with various fringe patterns until she settled on one.
For the neckline, she opted for a cotton base to convey a gentle impression.
For the belt around the waist, she chose a modern yarn with a subtle sheen and selected a stretchy yarn to ensure it securely holds the waist.
The charm of this item lies in the expression of the three yarns, but she always needs to knit it to truly understand it. It was crafted through such experimental processes.




The Braid Knitted Top for the 2024 Spring/Summer collection was crafted by a knit factory in Niigata Prefecture known for creating intriguing knit patterns. The story of this journey is something I hope to recount elsewhere.
The patchwork knit of this garment involves a blend of hand knitting, machine knitting, and sometimes combining both techniques. Supporting these methods are the skilled hand-knitters and the factories with whom we have had long-standing relationships.
Amidst the aging of these skilled technicians, making it increasingly difficult to realize intricate knitting techniques, we continue to collaborate closely with factories and knitters who are willing to take on the challenge of complex knit designs. We strive to create knit pieces that are distinctly leinwände—complex in design yet comfortable to wear.
Despite often hearing remarks like, "This combination is too complex!" the designers believe it is their role to keep crafting knits that, while labor-intensive, remain comfortable to wear, embodying the essence of leinwände.



2023 S/S Collection



HOW TO WEAR leinwände’s Knit Vest


Not only for adding a simple combination of a T-shirt and denim pants, leinwände's knit vest functions as a waist mark-like detail, such as layering over a dress. The designer suggests pairing it with an oversized cotton shirt, daringly showing some skin at the chest for a playful touch, while lately it's been styled with shorts or leggings. It particularly complements a sax shirt, enhancing its appearance with white knit.

Click here to check leinwände's lineup of knit layered items.